June 17, 2023 - Germany
Obersalzberg, Berghof, Eagle's Nest

It was an easy, scenic hour-long drive from Saltzburg to Obersalzberg.  We were signed up for the Eagle's Nest Historical Tour.  I knew we would see Eagle's Nest but didn't really know what else to expect.  I would learn quite a bit.

The Kehlsteinhaus (known in English as the Eagle's Nest) is a Nazi-constructed building erected atop the summit of the Kehlstein, a rocky outcrop that rises above Obersalzberg near the southeast German town of Berchtesgaden.

   
Looking down at the Oberalzberg Documentation Center -- which was built on top of one of the bunkers in an extensive system.  The documentation center has been closed for awhile for renovation.  We went to the Documentation Center in Berlin a few years ago.  It consists mostly of written material and photos.  While interesting, one documentation center on Nazis is probably enough.
   
Looking down at the parking lot where our car is.
   
We got on the Eagle's Nest tour bus and drove around.  Back in the day, it was a Nazi compound, with residences owned by Hitler and his entourage, along with SS and administrative buildings.  Now, this area is dotted with privately-owned vacation houses from which to enjoy the pretty view.
   
The government compound was all centered around Hitler's alpine chalet called Berghof.
   

In 1922-23, just out of prison, Adolf Hitler checked into this alpine hotel in Obersalzberg, three miles uphill from Berchtesgaden, to finish work on his memoir Mein Kampf.  Apparently, he fell in love with this picturesque corner of Bavaria.  He would purchase a little alpine chalet which would become the Berghof.

The hotel is now known as the Hotel zum Turken but is not open.  The hotel is just south of the Tour parking lot.

 

   

Just down a grassy slope from the hotel is this guard shack.  Back in the day it controlled access to Hitler's quarters:  the Berghof.

The tour guide leads us down a road and then a path into the woods.

   
We arrive at where the Berghoff once stood.  I would not have known anything was ever here, had not the tour guide told us so, since we were now standing in woods.
   
But first a look at what the Berghof once was.
 
In 1928, Hitler rented a small chalet called Haus Wachenfeld.  By 1933, Hitler had purchased Haus Wachenfeld with funds he received from the sale of his political manifesto Mein Kampf. The small chalet-style building was refurbished and much expanded by architect Alois Degano during 1935–36 under the supervision of Martin Bormann.  It was renamed The Berghof (English: "Mountain Court").
 
The 2008 movie Valkyrie, starring Tom Cruise as German Army Colonel Claus von Stauffenberg, has a fascinating clip where Stauffenberg meets Hitler at the Berghof.
   

The hotel is at center, with the Berghoff on the right.  The guard shack I photographed earlier can be seen at lower center.

The former hotel "Türken" was turned into quarters to house the Reichssicherheitsdienst (Reich Security Service; RSD) SS security men who patrolled the grounds of the Berghof.  It was later occupied by the Generalmajor of the Police. (The hotel was rebuilt in 1950 and reopened as the Hotel zum Türken. From it, visitors could still explore the historic underground hallways and tunnels that had been used by the Nazis.

Our guide was not sure about the hotel's current status, other than it was not open.

   
The left side of the Berhof, looking out over the valley.  This photo gives a good look at the famous terrace where many photos and videos of Hitler and his entourage were taken.
   
A frontal view of the Berghof.  Notice the "Great Window" on the Berghof's lower level.
   
Looking up at the Berghof.  The terrace stands out at center.
   
Side view of the Berghof.
 
Guests at the Berghof included political figures, monarchs, heads of state, and diplomats along with painters, singers, and musicians.  The important visitors were personally greeted on the steps just to the right of the flag pole.
   

Frontal view in black and white.

The social scene at the Berghof ended on 14 July 1944, when Hitler left for his military headquarters in East Prussia, never to return.

   
Photo of the "Great Window".  A sprawling picture window could be lowered into the wall to give a sweeping, open-air view of the snow-capped mountains in Hitler's native Austria.
 
The house was maintained much like a small resort hotel by several housekeepers, gardeners, cooks, and other domestic workers.
   
A photo showing part of the "Great Hall" which was furnished with expensive Teutonic furniture, a large globe, and an expansive red marble fireplace mantel.
   
On 25 April 1945, hundreds of Royal Air Force Lancaster heavy bombers bombed Obersalzberg.  At least two bombs struck the Berghof and did considerable damage to the building. Retreating SS troops set fire to the villa on 4 May, four days after Hitler's suicide in Berlin. Only hours later, the U.S. 3rd Infantry Division arrived at Berchtesgaden along with the French 2nd Armoured Division.
   
The Bavarian government demolished the burned shell in 1952.
   
This is what Berghof looks like now.  This would have been the view out of the "Great Window", although without the trees (which have grown up since).
   
Our tour guide talks to us where the Berghof once stood.
   
All that is left of the Berghof is the retaining wall.
   

Emerging out of the woods, back to the bus. The Hotel is at upper right.

 

   

Hitler used Berghof frequently but only used Eagle's Nest 14 times.  He did like to make a daily walk after lunch from the Berghof down to a teahouse on Mooslahnerkopf hill -- about a mile or so away -- and be driven back.  The cylindrical teahouse was built in 1937 and was Hitler's favorite destination which he, in contrast to Kehlsteinhaus (Eagle's Nest), used nearly every afternoon.  The teahouse was unscathed in the April 1945 bombing raid, but the Bavarian government knocked it down by 1951 because of its link with Hitler. For 55 years, the ruins lay in the woods by the 13th hole of the golf course, but these were taken away altogether during the summer of 2006.

The U.S. Army was in charge of the Obersalzbergarea after the war, and built the golf course and ski lift that you see.  This ski lift and golf course is west-northwest, and downhill, from the Berghof.

   

The view from the spot where Hitler's teahouse used to be courtesy of Wikipedia and Raven63.

It is well known that Hitler liked nothing better than to get away from it all by relaxing with those willing to endure his monologues accompanied by a plate of sweet cakes and a pot of hot tea.

   

Our bus took us back to the main bus/parking area where we boarded another bus that would take us up to the Eagle's Nest.

The next view shots are from the bus going up the steep and winding road to the Eagle's Nest parking lot.  The view from the road was fabulous, if not a little scary.

   
 
   
 
   
The road we went up was strictly one lane.  The low-guard rails would not stop a bus from going over the very steep cliff ....
   
Lake Konigssee is visible in the distance.
   
 
   
 
   
We arrived safely at the upper parking lot.  The Eagles Nest can be seen at top.    Rest rooms and obligatory gift shop are at lower right.
 
But the main thing is the tunnel entrance to go to the elevator at left.  The elevator is the only way up to the Eagle's Nest.
 
   
The Kehisteinhaus was commissioned by Martin Bormann in the summer of 1937 and paid for by the Nazi Party.  It was completed in 13 months. Twelve workers died during its construction.  A 13 ft wide approach road climbs 2,600 ft over 4.0 mi; it includes five tunnels and one hairpin turn. It cost 30 million ReichMarks to build (about $247 million USD, inflation-adjusted for 2022). Hitler's birthday in April 1939 was considered a deadline for the project's completion, so work continued throughout the winter of 1938, even at night with the worksite lit by searchlights.
 
The Kehisteinhaus was nicknamed Eagle's Nest by French diplomat André François-Poncet and the name stuck.
   

The Eagle's Nest was finished in 1938.

   
The entry tunnel is 407 feet long and leads to an ornate elevator that ascends the final 407 feet to the building.
   
A map showing the road to the Eagle's Nest elevator entrance.
   
Standing outside the elevator entrance.  The inside of the large elevator is surfaced with polished brass, Venetian mirrors, and green leather.
   

Today the building is owned by a charitable trust, and serves as a restaurant offering indoor dining and an outdoor beer garden.

We came out of the elevator and turned right into the restaurant.  The Nazis used this sumptuous wood-lined as the formal dining hall – the centrepiece of which was the large wooden table able to accommodate up to thirty diners.

The kitchen – which would never be used – was fully equipped with high-grade equipment designed by the Krefft concern, while there was a 750-piece silver cutlery set crafted by Munich-based F. A. Wandiger and 450-piece porcelain dining set made by Germany’s finest and most famous manufacturer Meissen. Every piece of cutlery – including an additional two-dozen tomato knives purchased in 1939 – carried the distinctive “AH” monogram, which would make them prize trinkets when the house was ransacked by occupying Allied troops in 1945.

The Kehlsteinhaus had no permanent residents and had been designed to accommodate only day visitors, who would have usually stayed at the Berghof on the Obersalzberg. Guards may well have slept in the guard room or basement when on overnight duty, but the house had not been equipped with any sleeping facilities.

All of the rooms in the Kehlsteinhaus were furnished to the highest standard, with no expense spared or corner cut.

   
The formal dining hall back in the day.
   
The formal dining hall from a different viewpoint.
   

We descended a small flight of stairs into the large octagnal main reception hall.

The large octagonal reception hall was primarily designed for more informal after-dinner entertainment, offering visitors almost a 270 degree view of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The floor of the room was laid with an decorative oriental-design carpet that had been presented as a gift to Hitler by the Japanese Emperor Hirohito. On the southern side of the reception hall another short flight of stairs led to what was arguably the most perfectly situated room in the house, the Scharitzstube.

   
 
   
The large octagnal main reception hall was originally used as the event or party room.  Although Hitler rarely used Eagle's Nest, his entourage including Eva Braun and high-ranking officers certainly did.  the attractive house on the mountain would turn into a popular destination for others in the Nazi leader’s inner circle, with one of the more frequent visitors being his mistress Eva Braun.
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The central feature of the main reception hall was the striking fireplace made of high-grade red Carrara marble, presented to Hitler by Italian leader Benito Mussolini.
   

The fireplace was damaged by Allied soldiers who chipped off pieces to take home as souvenirs.  You can really see the damaged areas in this picture, mainly the bottom edge of the horizontal pieces.

Furthermore, souvenir hunters virtually cleared the house of everything that was valuable or interesting, before officers could order the mountaintop chalet secured.

   
The reception hall area in front of the fireplace, back in the day.
   
Set up differently in this picture.  The fireplace is on the left.
   
From the main reception hall we came down the stairs into this empty wood-paneled room.  It was known as the Scharitzstube, or Scharitzkehlzimmer.  Now it is just called the “Eva Braun room”.  Although just an empty room now, back in the day the Scharitzstube was the brightest room in the house. Lined with expensive Cembra or Swiss pine panelling, the room featured two large picture windows facing south and east, offering a stunning view of the Scharitzkehlalm – after which the room had been named – as well as the Königssee and the peaks of the Hohen Göll and Watzmann. Both of the windows could be lowered almost completely, offering a completely unobstructed view outside.
 
The door at right leads out onto the terrace.
   
The smaller wood-paneled room back in the day.
   
We went out onto the Terrace where the history of Eagle's Nest was displayed on the inner wall.  The arches on the right are covered with windows but originally they were open to the air.
   
A rare shot of Hitler at Eagle's Nest, on the terrace.  In all, thirteen of Hitler's fourteen documented visits to Eagle's Nest were made before the start of the war in September 1939.   Hitler had long made clear his aversion to heights and the rarefied air at the top of the mountain, and had continually expressed his reservations over the safety of the elevator and the risk of bad weather.
   
The terrace led outdoors to the Beer Garten.
   
Nice view.
   
Zooming in on Salzburg.
   
Looking back at the Beer Garden.
   
Looking at the valley down below.
   
We followed the Mannlsteig path towards the summit.
   
The trail ended but it was still possible to climb further.  We chose not to.
   
Lake Konigssee in the distance.
   
 
   
German bird!  I don't think it's an eagle, though.
   
Hitler first visited on 16 September 1938 and returned to inaugurate it on 20 April 1939, his 50th birthday, though it was not intended as a birthday gift.
 
 
   
At the summit which is marked by the distinctive summit memorial cross or Gipfelkreuz.
   
Behind Lynnette, Salzburg is out there in the distance.
   

"Those who have been able to take the bus ride up the mountain road and visit the Kehlsteinhaus should perhaps be thankful for Hitler’s fear of heights, aversion to the thin mountain air and his irrational sense of paranoia concerning the elevator – an outstanding piece of machinery that has not failed on one single occasion since its installation seventy-five years ago."
   
Back at the upper parking lot, waiting for the buses to arrive.  I realized that the bus fleet goes up to the upper parking lot all together, like a convoy.  They drop off arriving tourists,.  They then pickup the departing tourists, and convoy back down the mountain.  It kind of simplifies the traffic scheduling on the one lane road.
   
All the buses arrive to take us down.
   
The buses are specially modified to ascend the steep road leading to the peak.
   
You can walk up and/or down to the elevator using this trail.  Down, maybe.  Up, definately not for most people.
   
Back in the main parking lot.
   
 
   
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